How to Build a Hanging Bed for Under $100 (Easy Suspended Bed Plans)

How to Build a Hanging Bed

DIY Suspended Loft Bed

Maybe you’ve been looking for inspiration for floating bed designs and you’ve come to realize that for a kid’s bed, the hanging bed (suspended bed) is a better bet (save on space). And finding hanging beds for sale is crazy, they’re expensive. A hanging bed is easy to build, can save loads of space in a small room and is affordable. All you’ll need are a few tools and a trip to the home improvement store. And the best part is: this DIY hanging bed “plan” is really simple and takes just a few hours. This is a Twin XL (mattress) sized bed.

DIY Suspended Bed for a Kid's Room

Materials Needed for Creating a Hanging Bed

Materials for the bed can all be purchased at Lowe’s or Home Depot. Links for materials for the hanging bed in this post are for Home Depot. Cost of materials for the bed (not the stain or guardrail) should total less than $100.

1 x 4 Common Board
2 x 4 Stud
2 x 6 Stud
Spring Link
Gusset Angle

Steel Screw Eye
High Test Chain
1/4 in. x 4 in. Zinc-Plated Hex Lag Screw
#10 3-1/2 in. Star Flat-Head Wood Screws (1 lb.-Pack)
#8 2-1/2 in. Phillips Bugle-Head Coarse Thread Gold Screws (1 lb.-Pack)

Cost of Hanging Bed Materials = $95.29

DIY Hanging Bed (Kid's Room)

Stain and Varnish

Pick a stain that makes sense for the style of the room. We went with Jacobean (dark) the color also accentuates the textures in the wood.

Twin XL – DIY Hanging Bed for Kids (Build Steps)

You’re only going to need a few hours to get this project completed. Here’s the thing… the staining process takes longer than the actual build. Take your time with it, it’s worth it to get the finish just right.

Cut Wood to Size

You’ll need to cut the side guard rails, end rails, bed slat supports, bed slats.

  • Side Guard Rails 2×6 – Need (2) – 82 1/2 inches (table saw or skill saw)
  • End Rails 2X6 – Need (2) 39 1/2 inches (table saw or skill saw)
  • Bed Slat Supports Take a 2×4 and cut it length wise in 2 pieces. Length must be 79 1/2 inches. You’ll need a table saw for best results. (table saw)
  • Bed Slats 1X4 Whitewood common board. You’ll want 15 slats at 39 1/4 inches. You’ll get (2) slats for each 8ft board you purchase. (table saw or skill saw)
Suspended Bed in a Kid's Room (DIY & Pics)

Assemble & Hang Bed Frame

Note: the end rails go inside the side rails. Use the 3 1/2 inch screws (2 in each corner on the guard rail sides).

Right Angle Clamp

The top of the guard rails will be exactly 33 inches from the ceiling. Mark the stud locations on the wall.

Find Studs to Level Bed

Level and mount the constructed frame with the top of the frame 33 inches from the ceiling. Use a drill bit smaller than the lag screw (bolt) for your pilot hole. Then secure the frame (using one lag screw) to the wall. We didn’t use washers but in retrospect, I would have.

Wall Mount Hanging Bed

While having someone hold the one end of the frame use a 2X4 (the one you purchased if you’d like / before the cut) to level the bed and to prepare to attach the chain to the ceiling. At this point (now that the bed is level) use the other lag screws to attach the frame to the wall. Attach a lag screw to each stud the frame touches. Add the larger lag screws (double up) to the ends (touching the wall) of the frame. Adding the extra (and larger) lag screw to the ends is just a little extra precaution.

Process of Leveling a Hanging Bed

Drill a pilot hole in to the joist (this is a basement room) as close to directly over the corner of the frame. Screw in the the screw eye using a screwdriver (horizontally for leverage).

Steel Screw Eye Install

Install the other screw eye in to the side guard rail, close to the edge so the screw enters the end rail as well. We placed the screw eye down 2 1/2 inches from the top of the rail. Connect the spring links to the chain and attach both spring links respectively to the screw eyes.

Steel Screw Eye Install

Remove the 2×4 brace you were using to level the bed, cut it (as explained previously) and attach it using the 2 1/2 inch screws. Add one screw every foot.

Install Bed Bracket

Mount the gusset angle using the 1 inch screws. This is to add a bit more stability to the frame.

Mounting Gusset Angle

Then hang on the bed frame like a monkey.

Hanging Bed Test

Staining and Prepping the Hanging Bed

Depending on your situation, you can stain the pieces of the bed frame before assembling, before attaching to the wall or after you’ve attached it to the wall. The after you’ve attached it to the wall is a little more difficult so we went with that. 🙂

Finish Preperation

  • Sand with an orbital sander.
  • Application of paint thiner to clean up and prep for stain with cloth.
  • Application of stain using a cloth.
  • Application of polyurethane using a foam brush.
  • Very fine steel wool to work out any imperfections and prepare for second coat of polyurethane.
  • Application of the second coat of polyurethane.
  • Very fine steel wool application to finalize the look and feel of the bed frame.

Buy rubber gloves (that stain sticks around if you don’t).

Staining the Wood for a Hanging Bed
DIY Kid's Room - Step by Step Suspended Bed + Materials List & Cost

 

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17 Comments on “How to Build a Hanging Bed

  1. James

    Don’t you need 3 of the 2x6x104-5/8 boards? 2 for the long ends and then 1 cut into two 39.5″ pieces for the ends? Also, why get the 104″ boards at all. When everything is less than 8′, just use that as the length for everything (before cuts).

    Reply
    1. Jeffrey

      Just got back from Home Depot, and found the same: Yes another 2×6 is needed!

      Thanks Rob for posting all this…my boy is gonna love it.

      Reply
    1. Rob Benson

      Sorry for the delayed reply! The hanging bed is very sturdy, we’ve been using it for quite awhile now and it’s rock solid.

      Reply
  2. Gabe Andrews

    I was just taking some time this morning to draw this out and by chance did a search in Google; and BOOM here is everything I was planning! This is awesome. Thanks alot for the details and the pictures.

    Reply
    1. Rob Benson

      What we did for the climbing wall wasn’t all that great. Some of the “rock” pieces came out.

      Here’s what I’d do if I knew what I know now:

      Before adding the plywood to the wall I’d secure the “rock” pieces to the plywood with some type of lock on the back piece of the plywood. Then I’d take the plywood and attach it to the wall (studs).

      What I did before: I hung the plywood then I screwed in the “rock” pieces via provided hardware as instructed via the company that sold the pieces. A few of them failed.

      But… A nice lock (bolt and washer) on the back of the piece/hardware (then sink that into the dry wall when you hang the plywood would work great.

      Hope that helps.

      Reply

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